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Sportswear International LONDON S/S 10 TRADE SHOW REPORT Following the departure of TBC and The Park, the London trade show scene for streetwear and young fashion has been far from overcrowded. The existing Margin and Pure Spirit fairs, however, continued to deliver powerful showcases. Over at the intimate and inherently charming show that is Margin (Aug. 2-3), a fusion of ’80s disco and Dynasty glam existed alongside a more crisp and fresh alternative. Incorporating sequins with gusto, the punk-inspired label Misfit presented a black hoodie smothered entirely in sequins, each applied by hand. “It didn’t come cheap but we had to make at least one,” enthused Lena Jansen about the collection’s ultimate showpiece. Going down a more utilitarian path, the London label Arms carried on with its raison d’etre, namely to provide practical yet satisfyingly quirky clothing for studio based boys and girls. Newcomer Germaine Minette, meanwhile, catered to men exclusively. The label’s finely tuned spring collection spanned the entire menswear spectrum, where suits sat comfortably next to cotton shorts and checked runner vests, all of which would impress the modern Dandy with a sense of fun. Being the all-encompassing showcase that it is, Margin didn’t exclude denim from the mix. This season, Oak made a welcome return to the show, nestled next to the premium denim player, Trousers London. On the footwear front, Finnish shoe brand St.Vacant served up bespoke styles for men and women that are ergonomical but far from dowdy. To put it in designer Janne Lax’s words, it’s an aesthetic that is ”timeless but in a peculiar way.” Come to think of it, that may well go to describe what works best in London right now. Although the event seemed more quiet than usual (no figures were released), visitors which did come through the door were high caliber and included buyers from Beams, United Arrows, Elephant, Bread & Honey, House of Fraser, Fenwicks, Top Man and Asos. —Emma Holmqvist |
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